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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.